Showing posts with label COMCWalkthroughs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label COMCWalkthroughs. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

COMC Walkthroughs - Selling Strategies - Buying cheap, unique stuff (With some tricks to speed up the process)

So I've probably sold like a zillion different ways on COMC by now, always trying something different to see what works.  Even when one thing worked, I was always trying 3-4 things in the background to see what else might work.  So I figured this series might be a good place to show off some of those ideas I've had.

Now today's idea is simple - buy cheap stuff, unique to the site, and sell it for more.  Common sense right?  Well you'd think...but for most people it takes a lot of time to find those kinds of cards and the actual time spent vs. money earned ratio ends up too low to make it worth it.  I've found some tricks over my COMC time that speed up the process considerably, and while that ratio is still probably too low for most, it works for me and it definitely gets me some nice sales.  So here, let me show you how I do it!

Part 1: Sort your cards differently:
The default view on COMC when you're sorting through cards is typically Highest SRP, 12 listings at a time, and details (i.e. full scans of cards).  This is great when you're actually shopping, but when you're trying to flip cards it slows the process slightly due to fewer items at a time and scans taking longer to load than simple text.  So when I'm flipping by buying cheap, I change my options at the top.

First, I change Highest SRP to "Lowest Asking Price" in the dropdown menu:

Then I change details to "List view" and listings to "100":

With those three switches, I now get a big ol' list of cards that is easy to scan all at once.  It looks like the one below, and the two pieces I really look at are price and quantity:

Part 2: Paying attention to Quantity and Price in the List View and using COMC's listing formula to your advantage
Quantity is most important to me - it tells you how many of a given card exist on the site.  If there's 100+, that's not a good buy for this strategy.  You want as few as possible, with one being the ideal.

Price is important as well though, and it's mainly because of the way COMC lists these cards in price order - this can lead to some REALLY good buys.  You'll notice little breaks between prices in your lists - for instance here's the break between the end of the 7 cent cards and the beginning of the 8 cent cards:

The Magic card at 8 cents is the card with the lowest price, for sure, but it is also the card whose highest price/SRP is lowest for an 8 cent card.  Here's a little table I made of those first few 8 cent-ers to show this:

Description             Quantity            Lowest Price           Highest Price
Magic Swamp             39                     8 cents                      25 cents
Terry Glenn                 2                      8 cents                      30 cents
Mark Brunell               3                      8 cents                      30 cents

I haven't heard confirmation anywhere that COMC sorts that way, but when you look through the cards there's a discernible pattern of cards having higher and higher prices for their highest price card within a card with it dropping again as SRP rises.  And if you know those patterns, you can find yourself some sweet deals even if a card has multiple copies.

That all reads kind of confusingly, so let me show you an example of how it works with the D.J. Harper 7 cent card from the list above.  It has a lot of copies, so I don't think it'll be a good card to buy, but it should illustrate my SRP/Highest Priced card point I was making.

Here's the first few cards from the Harper listing:

As I figured, it's not a good flip value.  I mean, I could reprice the card at more than 50% of its value, but with such a low profile player and such a low price point, I wouldn't be interested.  However, we see why the Harper is the last 7 cent card listed when we look at the most expensive versions of that card listed on COMC:

The card is grouped with a number of other 7 cent cards where affordablecards (lol) is charging $25 for his version, and that's why these cards are at the end of the 7 cent listings.  And knowing that is how we make our first trick work.

Part 3,  Strategy 1: Buying cards near the end of a specific price using this trick
The whole idea of this one trick is finding underpriced cards relative to their on-site brethren, which anyone can do (and many do do) - my trick just makes this a much faster process.  With D.J. Harper, the 2nd card in lot was only 19 cents, so it wasn't worth buying that card.  But that's because we only looked at price, and not quantity.  The ideal for this trick is to find cards between halfway and the end of a price level with lower quantity.  I typically look for less than 10 for quantity, with the lower obviously the better.

Here's one example.  I dug through some of the 8 cent cards and found a Dhani Jones about 2/3's of the way through the listings.  8 cents, quantity 2.  Based on where it is in the listings, my thinking is that the 2nd card is going to be priced considerably higher than the 8 cent card - my hope is somewhere in the 60-80 cent range based on the cards place in the listings:

I click on the card, and sure enough that 2nd card is $0.65 - more than 8 times the price of the lowest priced card:
For me, that's an easy buy.  I try to get cards in the 5-10 cent range and bump them up to the 50-75 cent range.  It's small profits, but they add up over time.  And they'll still under the 75 cent storage threshold so I don't have to pay a penny for storage every month on these cards.

I've used this to find much bigger upgrades than that though.  One of my biggest sales lately was a serial numbered card I found where the cheapest was 10 cents and the next highest priced card was $3.50.  I bought the 10 cent card, bumped the price up to $3.45, and sold it a few weeks later.  It doesn't always happen that easily but when it does it feels great!

Some tweaks that speed up how fast these flips sell - try doing this within a specific player (like Ken Griffey Jr. or Bryce Harper), or looking for specific special qualities (2015 as a year, Chrome as a set, serial numbering).  Quantity and Price are king, but Description is obviously your friend too and can help keep your flips more within what's "hot" or popular if you don't want to wait as long as I do for random cards to sell.

Part 4, Strategy 2: Buying cards unique to the site
This strategy is the even easier one, but there's so little of these cards at a given time at the real low price points so you have to search fairly regularly to make it work for you.  The one nice thing with price points working the way they do is that, by and large*, you can just check the 7 cent cards, then flip 20 or so pages to the beginning of the 8 cent cards, and so on, until you've checked them all.  It only takes a few minutes and it gets you a bunch of cards that are 1/1 on the site, which means you can set your own market to a degree.

Here's one example.  I reached the end of the 8 cent cards and notice that the top card listed for 9 cent cards has a quantity of 1:

This is an easy buy...I will grab this every time:
As I posted in the little capture in my image, buying this card allows me to set the price wherever I want since COMC buyers only have this one copy to choose from.  Many times I just go straight to 75 cents, but sometimes I go higher or lower depending on what I feel about that card.  The best is when oddballs get priced low and are 1/1 on the site - I've turned 10-20 cent movie cards into $3.50 profits this way.  So you never know what you'll find - and again your buy-in is so low that even 75 cents (or 50% off 75 cents) is good profit on these cards.

So this ends another edition of COMC Walkthroughs - a lot of the steps were a little convoluted this week, so if you have any questions feel free to share them in the comments.  Otherwise, see you next time!

* I say "by and large" because there are two caveats.  Caveat 1 is that sale cards count their asking price as SRP.  So a 50 cent card at 10 cents because of a sale will still sort with the 50 cent SRP cards - so you won't see it as one of the first cards in your list but more likely like 30th or 40th in the list.

Caveat 2 is the COMC has a 100 page limit restriction.  That seems like a lot with 100 cards per list (so 10,000 cards total!) but there are a lot of low priced cards, so you may only get to 12 or 13 cents before you reach the limit.  To get around this I often search within modifiers, like all 2015 cards, or all baseball cards, or something like that.  This way your search gets a little more stretch into the later teens or early 20 centers.

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

COMC Walkthroughs - More on offers, including Auto Accept and a list of specific Auto Accepts by COMC-er

So in my initial COMC walkthrough post, I mentioned the ability to make offers on cards.  It's a pretty basic part of the site, and I think most people realize it's there, but there's a misunderstanding around offers I wanted to clear up and a trick involving offers that I wanted to share, so those'll be the subject of this post.  I'll also include a list of sellers with known auto accepts to help you all get the best deals.  Hopefully this post will be helpful in some way!

The Misunderstanding:
Now on COMC, the highest offer you can offer on a card is 50% of the asking price, regardless of what it is.  So for a $100 card, the most you can offer is $50.  And on a $5 card the lowest you can offer is $2.50.  I'll demonstrate that with this Paul LoDuca card, where I click make an offer:

When I make an offer here, COMC lets me know that $2.50 is the lowest I can offer on this card.  It will either say something about how $2.50 is the lowest, or how the seller is not accepting offers right now - both mean the same thing:

I think this is an important thing to share, because some people see the lowest price is $2.50 and that message, and they think, "Man, this seller is a jerk who doesn't accept offers!"  But more often than not, it's just that the card is already at or beyond the offer threshold and that's why $2.50 is the minimum.  This won't always be the case (as we'll see with the card I use my trick on) but as I said it usually is.  So don't always let this discourage you from making future offers because you never know!

The Offer Trick:
So when you find a card you like, it's always nice to make an offer first instead of buying outright.  You'll need an account and all that to do so, which I detailed in that first walkthrough, but then you just click "make offer" under the card like I do below:

When I get to that next make an offer screen, what I always like to do is offer something BELOW 50% of the asking price.  Like I said above, it can't be accepted, and the seller won't see your offer as a result, but it does show you the lowest offer a seller will accept on a given card/set of cards.  Like below:

So with this card here, I found out that it's a $2.50 card and the most the seller will accept in an offer is 40% off, or $1.50.  There's no way to know that the seller will officially accept a 40% offer, but this gives me a better starting point for my offer than simple guessing.

With some sellers, I might go straight with the lowest possible offer of 40% off.  With others, I might say "So 40% off is his max - I'll try 30% off and see if offering 10% above his minimum makes the offer more palatable.  Everyone has their own strategy with what kind of offer they make, but it definitely helps to have the most information about a seller before you offer, and this little trick will give you that extra bit of information!

Sellers with Known Auto-Accepts:
So if you've read along this far, you finally get rewarded with my little self-kept list of known Auto-Accepts in the COMC world.  Auto-Accepts are awesome because instead of offering $2.50 and then waiting around for a week, COMC automatically accepts your offer for a given seller if they have the option turned on.  I've gotten a lot of good steals based on knowing people's Auto-Accepts, whether through them advertising it or me discovering it through my trick, so I figured I'd share my list with anyone on my blogroll as well so you guys will be able to always get the best price with these sellers.

Here's the list for ya'll - I'll try to keep it current as sellers alter the numbers they accept, but it'll always be most current on the Blowout Forums post that this list comes from:

50% Auto accept:
Cardboardcrack
scott1234
SpastikMooss
SportsCardGirl

40% Auto accept:
darin2200 (Considering offers up to 50% off, $0.25 minimum offer)

25% Auto accept:
colls69 (Considering offers up to 50% off)
higherpowered
Jacobeans
OldPaper (Considering offers up to 40% off)

20% Auto accept:
Affordable (Currently running 30% off sale)
BBallCT
coolz
Detroitscf
ga5150 (considering offers up to 50% off)
Jeterboy
Jonathan M (considering offers up to 35% off, accepting all offers for cards $9.99 or less)
NYMetsJets
SunDevil2422
Swipe79 (considering offers up to 30% off)
tdbaseballcards ($0.50 minimum offer, considering offers up to 38% off)
The700Level (considering offers up to 50% off)
thebrett (running a 25% off sale throughout the end of August)
YasielPuig2013

15% Auto accept:
XtremePaul (considering offers up to 50%)

10% Auto accept:
iluvfish2 (Auto Reject is at 40%, but will almost always counter any offers)
wubh

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

COMC Walkthroughs - How to make an offer and avoid the 20% cash out fee

I'm hoping this will be the first in a bunch of helpful COMC posts.  Some will talk about how to sell, some about how to buy, some about whatever - but all will aim at making the site a little more friendly for everyone!

This first post is from the non-COMC user buyer side.  A lot of people are initially hesitant to buy on the site because they think prices are too high, so people like me say "Make an offer!"

So they say, "But what about the rest of my money?  Or what if they reject my offer?  Then my money is stuck on the site unless I pay a 20% cash out fee."

To which I say, "Nope, that is INCORRECT!"

Because here's how you make an offer and get your 100% of your money back (minus any cards you bought obviously):

Step 1: Make an account

First you'll need to register for an account if you don't already have one.  Do so by clicking the register button in the top right of the home screen:

The free account screen looks something like this.  Email, username, password...all easy:

Step 2: Add store credit

Next you need to add store credit.  There are a few places to go to do this, but I think the simplest is to scroll down to the bottom of that front page and click "add store credit."  I pointed it out here:

COMC gives you a few options - paypal, mail, or in person.  This walkthrough is for paypal, but really it'd work for any of the three:

Here's your final credit adding page, where you can add what you want.  As I mention in the picture, you can go in increments of $10 if you do custom amount.  And I usually uncheck the box at the bottom so I don't get emails.  But once you finish this page you should have some credit to play with!

Step Three: Making an offer

Here's the fun part, finding cards to buy.  Find what you like and click on it, and you'll get to a screen like this.  Add to cart adds it so you can buy it later and buy now walks you through an immediate purchase.  Make an offer is the third option, and it lets you offer less than 100% which is cool!  Click that:

You will get to the offer screen, and here's where you make your offer.  You can offer up to 50% off at max - so you can't say $1 on a $5 card...the site won't let you.  Many sellers will also often have their own offers set up, and COMC will always tell you the lowest a seller can go if your offer price doesn't work with a little popup.  But anyways, offer what you'd like and if it's in the acceptable range, you're good to go!

Step Four: Requesting a Refund (Getting the remainder of your money back, or all of it if the seller declines your offer)

So we made an offer!  Sometimes it will accept automatically if the seller has that set, while other times you have to wait for them to make up their mind.  But eventually a decision is made, and you've got cash left over.  If you don't want to spend it on COMC, here's how you get it back!

Go back to that home screen when you're logged in, and click on your username in the top right.  A drop down menu appears, and click on the dashboard word to go to your dashboard:

On your dashboard, look on the left side and you will see "request refund" at the bottom of the first set of topics.  Click that:

That brings you to this screen - you want to click the top option:

And here's the great part!  As it says here for "buyers only," if you added the credit in the last 30 days, you can get 100% of it back without a fee.  So click the bar at the bottom (mine says "No store credit purchased recently" but yours will be green with a dollar amount in it) and COMC will then walk you through a page or two to get the money back to you, without any charge, as long as it's within 30 days of your credit purchase:

So in the end you get your card (hopefully) and the remainder of your money back without losing any to cash out fees.  GOOD TIMES!

And so ends my first COMC walkthrough.  If it was helpful, let me know, if you have questions, let me know, and most importantly if there are other topics you'd like to hear about, DEFINITELY let me know!  I'll try to cover at least one a month as I think of them, and I'd love to hear about walkthroughs people might want for those less familiar with the site!